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Steps for sublimation:
Step 1: Fixing your Image
Exactly the same with any printing design, the tone is managed by the state of your opening picture/source. Submit to several vectors (extremely scalable pictures including no lack in the presentation) stock situations, except for secret method, you can usually obtain available supplies accessible online, or of course, build your individual!
Something to retain in memory, Sublimation tusche is transparent and relies on its history to give brightness the ultimate form, on a white flagon this is simple peasy and full-color pictures come true to life.
On plug coasters or different substrates that are innocent/more mysterious, etc. inquire prints are supported as shade improvement might be required.
Learn to modify/reflect your vision (particularly any manual!) and write it out over sublimation paper with sublimation tusche (over the peak of the paper that does NOT have watermarks/lines) at the specific order you would prefer to write in.
Step 2: So, You have made a Worn out, Reflected, Design on Funny Paper
Once you own your paper in control, you want to crop it to the area, attempting to evade discussing the parts of your form that will communicate your hole (flagon, etc)
I practice a paper cutter for this, as I see a particular plaza rear end, and can designate this upon a smooth desk tip for a level change over my blank.
Apply a warmness repellent strip to snugly join your paper to the blank.
Step 3: Fixing Up Your Press
For sublimation depends on the change of the regular ink in a vapor that requires heat to get this happen. The constant force secures the vapor passes where we want, right on our space!
For cups, apply 400 degrees, for 180 seconds, tap coasters, 300 degrees for 75s.
Step 4: Push On!
Put your space, with well fix sublimation paper/image in the press and fill it, these papers have cam-type devices, so once finished they will not start to standard force is used. Start your timer once the press is filled
